Winter-Proofing Your Home: Insulation and Draught-Proofing That Cut Heating Bills
The insulation and draught-proofing jobs that make the biggest difference to a cold home, from the loft and walls to floors, pipes, windows and doors.
Much of the heat in a typical UK home escapes through the roof, walls, windows, doors and gaps in the floor. Before you turn the thermostat up, it is worth stopping the heat getting out. Some jobs cost very little and pay for themselves in a single winter.
The quick answer
- Draught-proof doors, windows, letterboxes and floorboards first, as it is cheap and quick
- Top up loft insulation to around 270mm
- Lag pipes and hot water tanks in unheated spaces
- Get cavity or solid wall insulation assessed by a specialist before installing
- Keep ventilation working, as a sealed-up home without airflow gets damp
Where heat escapes and what to do
| Area | Common problem | Fix |
| Loft | Thin or missing insulation | Top up to about 270mm, keep eaves vents clear |
| Walls | Uninsulated cavity or solid walls | Specialist survey for cavity, internal or external insulation |
| Windows | Draughts, failed seals, single glazing | Reseal, repair, secondary glazing or replacement |
| Doors | Gaps round the frame and under the door | Seals, brushes, threshold strips, letterbox flap |
| Floors | Gaps in suspended timber floors | Fill gaps, seal skirting, insulate underneath where accessible |
| Pipes and tanks | Uninsulated in cold spaces | Foam lagging and a cylinder jacket |
| Chimney | Unused chimney drawing heat up | Fit a chimney draught excluder, but remove it before lighting a fire |
Draught-proofing: the quickest win
- Self-adhesive or nail-on seals around opening windows and doors
- Brush or rubber strips at the bottom of external doors
- A letterbox brush or flap and a keyhole cover
- Sealant or filler along gaps between skirting boards and floorboards
- Covers for unused chimneys
Do not block air bricks, extractor fans, trickle vents or the ventilation needed by gas appliances and open fires.
Loft insulation
Loft insulation is one of the most cost-effective upgrades. The commonly recommended depth for mineral wool is about 270mm. Lay a second layer across the joists, and if you want storage, use raised loft legs so the insulation is not squashed. Our loft boarding guide explains more.
Wall insulation
Cavity wall insulation suits many homes built from the 1920s onwards, but not every wall is suitable, especially exposed walls or those with existing damp. Always get a specialist survey first. Solid walls in older homes can be insulated internally or externally, which is a bigger project and may need planning or building regulations approval.
Keep the air moving
A well-insulated home still needs ventilation. Without it, moisture from cooking, washing and breathing condenses on cold surfaces and causes mould. Use extractor fans, open trickle vents and air the home briefly each day. Our condensation, damp and mould guide explains how.
Grants and support
Government energy efficiency schemes change regularly. Check GOV.UK and your energy supplier for current support with insulation and heating upgrades.
Frequently asked questions
What is the cheapest way to make my house warmer?
Draught-proofing doors, windows and floors, closing curtains at dusk and bleeding radiators cost little and make a noticeable difference.
Is cavity wall insulation safe?
In suitable walls, yes. Unsuitable or poorly installed insulation can cause damp, so get an independent survey first.
Can insulation cause damp?
It can if ventilation is blocked or it is installed in the wrong place. Keep vents clear and get advice for walls.
Related guides
- Sticking, squeaky or draughty doors
- Winter home maintenance checklist
- Draughty or failing windows
- Front and back doors before winter
- Autumn home maintenance checklist
- Loft boarding for storage
We draught-proof, insulate lofts, fit seals and repair doors and windows across West London. Send photos and your postcode, or call 07444 262522.